Murrumbidgee To The Mountains
From the Murrumbidgee to the Mountains!
This adventure was always going to be a feast for the eyes and soul. Vandy and I researched this episode and really couldn't wait to immerse ourselves in the towns, their history, the riding, the food, accommodation offerings, and of course, the locals who make Trail Towns so special. But we seriously didn't expect or were we prepared for the sheer beauty of the region. Wagga Wagga was hillier than I remembered. I hadn't been there for years, and with a wetter than normal summer, it was surrounded by green rolling hills. It's a big town, one that's pumping and quite obviously busy with a full-blown COVID 19 bounce back. We rode all over the town, down along the Murrumbidgee, through the wetlands on the new bike trail, and then checked out Pomingalarna bike park. What a Trail Town. The feel of Wagga is absolutely authentic. It has some fantastic places to eat, classic and welcoming pubs, and a multitude of places to stay. Some really memorable and must-visit places were the Meccanico Espresso + Wine (proper Tuscan) and the Thirsty Crow Brewery (sensational everything), but really there are so many it's hard to name them all.
The city of Wagga Wagga at sunrise. Stunning!
As for the biking, we hung out with the local MTB club who showed us around the MTB park and what a cool place it is. Not too much climbing, the hand built trails were technical without being intimidating with the best views of Wagga for miles around. We learned about the new bike complex being built - 10 million dollars will get you a pretty impressive bike hub! Wagga is known for some of the best athletes in Australia already, so look out - the next raft of bike riding legends looks to be coming from this wonderful Trail Town.
Our awesome local tour guides from Wagga Wagga MTB Club at Pomingalarna Reserve.
Vandy and I then set off for Tumut and the Snowy Valleys. This area was a mystery to me, but literally stole my heart within the first 20 kms. Most of the time I feel like mountains rise above me - but here it felt like the valleys descended below me as if the landscape was melting away as we travelled deeper. Streams were full, the hills increasingly dramatic as they fell away to lush valleys. Driving to Tumut was wonderful, I spied an old disused railway for the entire journey, meandering its way through valleys, cuttings, culverts, and old bridges. It may one day be a rail trail (discussions are ongoing) and if so would easily be one of the best in Australia. Tumut was captivating, it's old, yet has a feeling of zest and vibrancy. The Coffee Peddler, a very cool cafe, would stand up in any city around the world, and the brewery was one of the most welcoming I've been to.
Stunning views of the Tumut State Forest, just outside of Tumut.
Just two of the highlights were our chopper ride and the Tumut MTB park. On the back of the choppers, we drove through the deep valleys and up to the base of the Kosciuszko mountains. Whilst taking in the mind-blowing Snowy Hydro scheme (I had no idea of the scale of this project...it's enormous!) we saw wild brumbies and waterfalls that rarely flow this time of the year, pumping like its deep winter. Next to the Tumut MTB park. The old school, hand-cut trails are genius, using the contour lines to deceptively trick you into not realising you were climbing...very clever, and then descending? Flowing and natural, making it accessible to most riders, and more than a little testing if you put the hammer down. We ran out of time this trip but the next time I come here is to camp by the Tumut River, which is one of the most beautiful rivers I have seen. Looking forward to it already!
Vandy and I on an adrenaline high after our Mountain Explorer tour with pilot, Jim Ryan, from True North Helicopters.
Tumbarumba was our next stop where we rode the new Tumbarumba Rail Trail to Rosewood. Starting in the town, (which is way cool) you cross the river, ride past the absolutely classic 1950's service station workshop, and onto the old railway line. The view was quite unique and unlike most rail trails I've ridden, the rolling hills make it really soothing and soulful, it's got to be one of the most beautiful I've ridden. At Rosewood, an easy 22 kms away, you'll find a huge gnome garden waiting to greet you...and some wonderful places for lunch. It's the perfect out-and-back day trip for most riders. I loved it and highly recommend experiencing it. We also stopped in at Courabyra Wines, ran by local Cathy Gairn. The surrounds were simply stunning, the hospitality was top tier and the sparkling wine was even better! You have got to stop by and have a meal at Courabyra, Cathy rolls out the red carpet at this beautiful winery.
Vandy and I rolling along the Tumbarumba to Rosewood rail trail.
The last part of the road trip was in the Towong region of northern Victoria, taking in Mitta Mitta, Tallangatta, Corryong, and Tintaldra. With huge sculptures dotted along The Great river Road, this region is full of surprises. Tucked away in the very top part of the state - it ought to be a lot more well known - utterly spectacular. We stopped at the Tintaldra pub right on the Murray River - and believe me if you're used to the Murray from Albury down, you won't recognise this river. Clean, fast flowing, crisp and wonderful. I just gazed at it for what felt like half an hour, just getting my head around its flow and power. The pub is lovingly cherished by the locals and is a proper bush pub - welcoming and warm. Corryong was a lot bigger than I thought it would be and had one of the most interesting shops I've been into for a long time, Bacash Emporium, which has been operating since the '60s. It's an Aladdin's cave of cool stuff, and Vandy and I spend way too long checking it out - we actually got in trouble from the director! A must-see highlight is the Corryong racecourse where Phar Lap was filmed, the grandstand alone is worth the trip - to check it out.
Breathtaking views from Farrans Lookout, located in the Towong region near Corryong and Tintaldra
Next, we moved on to The High Country Rail Trail. Starting in Shelley, the highest railway station in Victoria, and going all the way to Wodonga, we rode the section to Tallangatta. Numerous and stunning trestle bridges punctuated the trail and I quickly lost count of how many we had encountered. These were proper big ones spanning ravines, they enabled the trains during the hay days of the '50s to deliver materials and people to the Snowy scheme. The gentle roll into Tallangatta was something to behold as the valley opened up to reveal a huge lake - Lake Hume - and the remnants of Old Tallangatta. Sometimes the ruins are immersed under the water of the lake when levels are high. It was like looking at the old Tumut rail line, except this was an entire town! New Tallangatta is now a vibrant town with a lovely village green and an absolutely brilliant bakery.
Vandy and I taking in the gorgeous landscapes along The High Country Rail Trail to Talangatta.
The last stop on our beautiful adventure was Mitta Mitta. Tiny but captivating, it really summed up for me what is special about the Towong region. There's so much space and so few people, but when you do meet the locals, whether it's in the Mitta Pub or the Mitta Brewery, they welcome you with open arms. Gravel riding is what this area is famous for and unless you've ridden Mitta gravel, you wouldn't really understand how special it is. Think of the best gravel you've ever ridden, then multiply everything you love about it by 10. That's Mitta Gravel.
Gravel riding at Callaghan Creek with local Jo Turner.
This episode, the adventure Vandy and I had from the Murrumbidgee to the Mountains was magical and truly memorable. It was like a dream actually. Almost surreal in its beauty, with riding to match and so many truly great places to eat, stay, relax and unwind. Every time I think about it I smile - and wish I was there all over again.
